Poinsettia Plants
In this last home area before the holidays, we are busy finishing work while putting the finishing touches on shopping, packing, wrapping, and more. We also make sure to grow new houseplants that we have brought into our homes for the holidays. Our dry, low-light homes are not a very welcoming environment for some tropical plants to be used for moisture. Today's exclusive article talks about caring for Poinsettia, one of the ubiquitous holiday plants.
Poinsettias are synonymous with Christmas. But unfortunately, when the holidays are over, most of these beautiful plants end up in compost piles or trash. Instead of throwing them away, with a little effort, these holiday symbols will become a unique houseplant.
Poinsettias lush, dark green, tropical foliage is a beautiful addition to your home plant collection. When spring comes and the danger of frost passes, the plants can be moved outside, where they will become the true stars of the shade garden.
Light Requirements:
To maintain your poinsettia year-round, you need to provide some minimum requirements. After the holidays, place the plant in a bright window, but not in direct sunlight. It should bloom continuously for several weeks. If possible, choose a room with a slightly cooler overnight temperature of 65 to 75 degrees.
Irrigation:
Water the plant only when the soil is dry enough to touch, but do not let it dry completely. Never allow the bottom of the pot to sit in a saucer with water. To drain the water, remove the plastic nursery pot from its foil or basket and place the pot in the sink. Turn on the tap so the water flows into the pot. Use warm water and allow it to pass through the pot for several minutes. Drain the pot thoroughly before placing it in its foil pot cover, basket, or decorative container.
Keep it warm:
Keep your poinsettia away from cold drafts. They are tropical plants and shed their leaves when exposed to cold temperatures. Some leaves and fructose (colored "leaves") may be dropped in the coming weeks anyway. This is normal.
Post-vacation period:
Eventually, all colored pieces will fall off the plant. Once they are done, reduce your watering slightly. From that time until spring, the plant does not grow vigorously. It may lose all its leaves and become completely dormant, but as long as the stems are flexible, the plant will be fine.
When March arrives, prune one-third of the plant. This will stimulate the branches and keep the plant more compact. After a few weeks, the stems should start new growth.
Once the risk of frost has passed in mid-May, use fresh potting soil and place your poinsettia in a slightly larger container. Once it is repositioned, move your poinsettia outward. Place in a shady place away from direct sunlight in the afternoon.
Treat the plant as you would any other annual or tropical plant, watering as needed and fertilizing every two weeks with water-soluble, organic manure.
If your plant is growing fast, you can remove one-third of the total height of the plant and prune again in July. In September, move the plant indoors before the night temperature drops below 50 degrees.
Encouraging the plant to bloom again: Poinsettias need a little trick to re-bloom, but if you are willing to try, it is more than possible. Beginning in early October, the plant should be kept in complete darkness for 14 hours every 24 hours. Darkness should not be interrupted by any artificial or natural light. You can keep the plant in a dark closet overnight or near a window in an unused room in the house, where it will naturally be exposed to the long nights of autumn and winter.
After 8 to 10 weeks, the plant should begin to fade. But even if your poinsettia fails to bloom again, it still produces a wonderful houseplant that can still grow.
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