Planning your home garden

Think long term when planning your garden

When it comes to big-ticket items like a patio that defines a main outdoor room, irrigation that needs to be installed before anything else, or slow-growing evergreens that are the essential bones of a design, you need to think. in front Here are some things I keep in mind when working with clients to create functional, livable gardens.

Rule 1: Don't make the path too short

If you have the room, give yourself a 5-foot-wide path. This allows two people to walk side by side. For a front entry approach, the larger the house, the path or sidewalk should be wider. A wide path provides enough space for plants to grow to soften the edges, reducing maintenance. However, not every lane needs to be 5 feet wide; A secondary utility lane used for maintenance shall be 3 feet wide only.

Rule 2: Think ahead about watering

Whether you're establishing a new garden or renovating a mature garden, watering shouldn't be an afterthought. Think how nice it would be to have water next to your vegetable garden, pond or bird pond. The water in my pond evaporates at least 2 inches per week, and sometimes more in hot weather. If you already have an underground irrigation system, it's relatively easy to install a spigot directly into your water supply main. Consult an irrigation specialist if necessary. In cold weather, a spigot installed in the main line will automatically drain when the irrigation system is drained for the winter. A drip system is the most efficient way to irrigate a narrow space, such as a house or the edge of a fence. It uses less water and has very little overspray on the house, fence or paths. (Learn more about drip irrigation in Drip Irrigation Basics.)

If you have a large garden, consider adding a hose and reel to the hose in an easily accessible but slightly hidden location. Where you can get water when you need it, but without having to drag a long pipe across your property. Not enough room for a reel? I roll my pipe into an attractive frost-proof container that is large enough to hold the pipe.

Rule 3: Plant two-thirds of your garden with evergreens

Most people think that a two-thirds green garden cannot be colorful, blooming or fragrant. I take that challenge and show them that it definitely can be. The remaining third is reserved for the fluff and drama of deciduous shrubs and perennials. Once established, evergreens will take care of themselves if you've chosen the right plants for your conditions. The remaining one-third is the maintenance you need to do.

Cones of every shape and size are puzzle pieces that tie the garden together and anchor the landscape to the home. Broad-leafed evergreens with dense, dense habits and shiny surfaces that reflect light also make excellent anchors. These evergreens come in a variety of sizes, so consider how much space you have. When you place an evergreen plant, think first about the shape of the mature plant, then about the color. If you have the room, use the same plant multiple times to create a sense of harmony.

Rule 4: To find the patio size, measure the height of the house

When deciding how big to build a new outdoor living area, start by measuring the height of your home from grade to the ridge line of the roof. The distance to the ridge line is 15 to 17 feet for most single-story homes. Start by placing the edge of the patio or deck farthest from the house (or if the house is tall). Mark your spot with landscape paint or a garden hose so you can easily visualize the space.

This will help you find the right proportions. You also need to think about how you plan to use this outdoor space. If you use it for dining or entertaining, will there be enough space for furniture and guests? Provide enough space to accommodate your lifestyle. If you are unsure and have enough room, bigger is always better.

Plant Picks: Evergreens That Add Interest or Some Serious Drama

1. ‘Sekkan-sugi’ Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica ‘Sekkan-sugi’, Zones 6–9)

2. ‘Goshiki’ false holly (Osmanthus heterophyllus ‘Goshiki’, Zones 6–9)

3. Southern magnolia (Magnolia grandiflora, Zones 6–10)

4. ‘Berrima Gold’ incense cedar (Calocedrus decurrens ‘Berrima Gold’, Zones 5–8)

5. ‘Nana Lutea’ hinoki cypress (Chamaecyparis obtusa ‘Nana Lutea’, Zones 4–8)

6. Late cotoneaster (Cotoneaster lacteus* syn. C. parneyi, Zones 6–8)