How to start a new garden bed
Want to start a new garden? Here's how to clean your land - whether it's replacing lawn grass or reclaiming weedy land. If the soil is wasted or neglected, we will help you re-produce the soil!
Your Garden Location
Before destroying your lawn or land, you can start with four basics for choosing a good gardening site:
The sun! Most plants need sunlight. If you are planting a vegetable garden, the crops need 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight so they will not be too shady.
Avoid land with lots of rocks or invasive grasses (such as johnsongrass and invisible bermudagrass) as it can be very difficult for your garden to be successful.
Avoid flooding and steep slopes as they may present water and access-related challenges.
Heavy clay soils can also be challenging; In this case, we recommend raised bed gardens.
We are going to divide this area into two parts: 1. clearing the lawn for a garden and 2. clearing the unused land for a large garden or small farm.
Removal of frame grasses for a garden
Ideally, you start this project in the fall. If you want to start your garden right away, check out our "Quick Versions" below.
We like to use the first “breathing method” with the cardboard box, but we’ve added two methods that gardeners use for the chemical approach: solarization and manual digging.
Smoking method
Define your garden bed. Take a pipe or string or rope and outline the shape of the garden. A rectangle is easy.
Start by cleaning the surface of debris and rocks larger than chicken eggs. Cut the grass or mow the weeds in the ground.
If there are a lot of weeds in the ground you want to grow, place a layer of cardboard or 8 to 10 newspaper sheets down, adding the edges at least 6 inches to each other. If you use newspaper, make sure there is only black ink on the sheets (no color) and the card should not be waxed. Mark the paths between the beds using a thick cardboard box lined with thick overlays. This will help eliminate weeds between growing areas. You can cover the cardboard box with bar chips or after.
Moisten it well to help break the card. Cardamom acts as a further barrier to weeds, causing fatigue and eventually killing most of them. Once the growing season begins, you will find that it will be much easier to get rid of the weeds that deal with it.
Now add a thick layer of well-rotted organic matter. Add compost 3 to 4 inches thick on paper or cardboard. If it progresses rapidly for a few months, the grass and weeds below will rot and return that wonderful nitrogen back to the soil. Earthworms gradually attach organic matter to the soil below. You left loose, dark, moist soil without weeds.
If the organic matter in your bed at the time of planting is lumpy, start planting vegetable seedlings in plug trays or pots as soon as they have developed a firm root system. This will make it easier to place the plants at regular intervals and save time thinning the rows of seedlings.
Solarization method
Use the power of the sun! Cover the area with clear or black plastic tarpaulin; The floor beneath the plastic heats up, which burns live grass and weeds, seeds, and soil bacteria. In about four weeks, your grass should be dead and broken. If you want to dig in the dead grass soil and make compost or other soil corrections, you can plant your garden bed.
Manual method
Although this method requires a lot of physical effort, it is very effective and quick. Hold a sharp spade in hand. Water the lawn one day before removing the grass, then cut the lawn into 1 square foot sections. Slide the hoe down each section into the section and pull it up and out of the ground. Discard the grass (because it will contain weed seeds).
Make compost in the soil when you first start a garden to give the plants the food and nutrients they need. Then make sure the soil is absorbed and it will be even before planting. Do not step on your soil or it will become brittle.
Quick versions for changing the frame to the garden
Chewing technique
Follow the thin technique above using a stacked newspaper. This quick technology assumes you have good soil (against weed, neglected, spent soil).
Soak the newspaper layers in water.
Keep plants at the right distance (as indicated by your plant labels)
Cut a damp newspaper to dig a small planting hole for each.
Sow excess dirt on paper and spread
Cover all newspapers with a few inches of mulch. If you are planting a vegetable patch, covering it with straw (against mulch) is another option.
If you have clay soil, you can build raised beds in their lawns, and build a cardboard box to line the grass - this is a technique for filling beds and starting a garden.
Immediately.
Destruction of land or land for crops
If you are planning a large garden or small farm, be sure to set aside time to reclaim the soil for planting. Most fields of weeds represent spent or neglected soil, but we can reclaim that land!
The first job is to brush and cut small trees to the fence line. Even if you can’t do anything right now, do this before these trees get the soil for the ongoing pine cycle. Each shrub is part of the cycle and prepares the soil for the next stage. Catching it before the soil changes significantly is half the battle.
Using a heavy-duty pair of lopping knives, cut the small growth straight and as close to the ground as possible. The sharply cut sapling stub will go straight through a tractor tire or a shoe. Large saplings and logs should be pulled out.
Walk-in that area and mark the location of any rocks. Larger rocks may have been plowed at one time, and you may choose to take the path, but it is best to remove as many rocks as possible.
To see how big the rock is, hit it with a cockpit. If it * dings * a high rock, it usually means to dig or pull out a large rock; If it makes a dull sound, it should be a normal shovel or a rock that you can handle with your bare hands.
Restoring your soil
To stimulate the soil, plant compost crops or "cover crops." Even if you do not use them for food or fodder, they help to restore the soil to suit the crop.
Rye is the best-known green manure. Other soil fertilizers include beef, mustard, oats, alfalfa, clover, winter peas, and timothy.
Legumes return nitrogen to the soil with organic matter, and it is a good choice for long-term soil growth. Winter rye is best planted in the fall and plowed two to three weeks before spring planting. White peas are good for bees. Alfalfa is expensive to plant, but its deep roots work wonders for your soil. Trifo is a good choice for wet areas.
Spinach, marrow, and mustard are good for spring planting. They germinate in cold soil and are planted as soon as they dissolve in the ground. You can plow them in four to six weeks, and these are great for making a vegetable garden if you can’t get them to your land in the fall.
Allow plowing and planting under two or three weeks. The roto-tiller plants designed for the back will do well chopping as they attach to the soil. The principle of a green manure crop is that it decomposes after plowing and all the nutrients used during its growth will return to the soil. It also adds important organic matter, so all types of soil from sand to clay respond favorably to this treatment.
Returning organic matter to the soil is, unfortunately, not a method. If the decomposition process is to continue, it must continue in the form of planting or fertilizing with manure, leaves, or animal manure.
Cycle plan
Once you have fertilized your field (mulch helps plow every year, so do the shredded leaves) it can be further improved by rotating planting. This means dividing your land or garden into several parts and planting different things, changing them every year. Alfalfa, corn, and wheat are good choices for spinning. Even if you do not use crops for food, your soil will improve instead of deteriorating.
That’s all you can do in your first year. However, each year this process will turn even solid clay or sand into an excellent garden in five to six years. If it appears forever, don't worry about it! Chop the vegetables
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